How to Surf

by Gwendolyn Contos, June 2014

300 words

1 page

essay

Introduction

Surfing is a great active sport activity especially suitable for the young people seeking extreme. However, this type of activity is specific and requires special physical preparation and involves precautions that must be made beforehand. First and foremost, every surfer should be the advanced swimmer to master this activity.

Instructions

Given you are new to surfing, please follow the following steps that will help you to make your first surfing experience safe and pleasant:

Buy (or better rent) a second-hand foam board for the few first trials. The boards made from other materials (e.g. fiber glass) can hurt you every time you lose control.

Select a long-board (8 feet or more) which is most suitable for the learning period.

Find a suitable spot for the beginners so that not to harm others at the intermediate or advanced surfing spots.

Make your first practice with the board on the sand.

Take the belly-down position on the board to line up your body straight down the middle of the board. Leave a couple of inches between the back end of the board and your feet.

Practice the getting up and paddling motion on the sand before you get to the water.

Practice getting up when you lie in the middle of the board. As quick as possible, push your body up and bring your feet to the board.

Once at ocean, keep far from the waves not to get washed down.

Walk to the about waist-deep depth, then get into the middle of the board belly-down and paddle ahead in a freestyle fashion until you reach waves.

Turn the board around by paddling hard. You will practice turning on the side you want to. If you want to turn to your right then paddle hard with the left hand on the left side, and vice versa. The body should be kept straight on the board.

The waves will come behind you, so do not let them wash you down or take you by surprise. Keep on the board and paddle hard not to allow the wave break at you.

Try to crouch slowly and quickly stand on your knees once the wave breaks. Remember the motions you practiced on the sand.

Conclusion

The most important thing for surfing beginners is to get hang of it over the first few times. Therefore you should initially find the center of balance that will enable you to paddle and sit on the board. The well-balanced position on the board is the fundamental necessity you should master to further advance and get pleasure from this indeed extreme …

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